The Vatican prepares for a conclave starting next Wednesday to elect a new pope. This year, however, neither of the two top papal tailors has received an order to prepare the traditional white cassocks.
Ranieri Mancinelli, who runs an ecclesiastical tailoring shop near the Vatican, decided to prepare three cassocks: small, medium, and large. “I’m doing this on my own so I can offer them to the new pope, whoever he may be,” Mancinelli explained.
Gammarelli, another well-known tailor in Rome, has supplied cassocks for papal elections since the early 20th century. The family business has dressed popes, priests, and bishops since 1798. Lorenzo Gammarelli, part of the sixth generation of the firm, said the last time no pre-conclave order arrived was in October 1978, after the brief papacy of John Paul I.
Gammarelli declined to speculate on why the Vatican hasn’t placed an order this time. However, Italian media suggests the Vatican may already have a stock of unused cassocks. Pope Francis’s focus on sustainability and cost-effectiveness might be a factor.
“It’s a bit disappointing,” Gammarelli said. “Making the vestments for a new pope is always a special occasion, even amid the sadness of a papal death. But not this time.”
The Vatican has not given an official explanation. Spokesman Matteo Bruni commented, “Not every curiosity requires an answer.”
Tradition meets simplicity
The new pope traditionally appears in a hand-tailored white wool cassock, a white cape, wide silk sleeves, and a gold-fringed silk sash. Previous popes had their sash embroidered with their papal seal. Francis chose not to follow this custom, also avoiding the crimson mozzetta—a short ceremonial cape—and the gold-embroidered stole.
The pope’s attire is finished with a white skullcap, or zucchetto. For conclave preparations, Gammarelli also provides a range of shoes to ensure a comfortable fit for the new pope. “After that, shoes are a personal matter,” Gammarelli added.
Gammarelli’s process is highly methodical. They use the measurements of existing cardinals and their own guesses about the likely papal candidates. “We consider who might be elected, pull their measurements, and prepare three cassocks that should suit them,” Gammarelli said.
From guesswork to garments
Sometimes, predictions fall short. In 1978, no one expected Cardinal Karol Wojtyla from Poland to become Pope John Paul II. Similarly, although Jorge Mario Bergoglio was a candidate in 2005, Gammarelli did not foresee his election in 2013.
There have also been mishaps. When John XXIII appeared on the balcony in 1958, he wore a cassock held together with safety pins after aides mistakenly grabbed a size too small.
During Francis’s papacy, Gammarelli suggested he wear white trousers under the cassock. However, the pope continued wearing black trousers, a choice that reflected his pastoral nature.
Mancinelli has crafted garments for the last three popes. He recalls Benedict XVI from his time as a cardinal and received an invitation from Pope Francis to visit his residence in Santa Marta, marking the start of a warm relationship.
While Gammarelli refrains from making cassocks without a commission, Mancinelli has prepared three sets in the simple style that Pope Francis favours. “Compared with the others, Francis preferred simpler, more functional garments,” Mancinelli said, noting cost-efficiency as another factor.
It remains to be seen whether the next pope will continue Francis’s modest style or return to traditional regalia. We’ll know once the words “Habemus Papam!” echo from the balcony of St Peter’s Basilica.
