No other country in the world celebrates Holy Week, or Semana Santa, in such a big and beautiful way as Spain, which surprises many visitors.
For centuries Spain was considered one of the most Catholic countries in Europe. Nowadays the situation has changed considerably, but the traditions are carefully preserved and passed on from generation to generation.
Depending on the region, Holy Week is celebrated in different ways, but necessarily lavishly and with mysticism. Spectacular processions with monumental figures make a lasting impression. These days Spanish towns and villages are filled with a riot of colours. The smell of incense wafts from the streets, flowers and the music of wind instruments are everywhere. In such an environment, it is difficult for even a non-believer to remain indifferent to the celebration of Holy Week. The theatricality of Holy Week celebrations attracts not only Spaniards but also tourists from all over the world.
The celebrations begin on Palm Sunday. Holy Week is inextricably linked to the processions, which are organised on a grand scale and require long preparation, nothing is accidental: each participant has a specific role to play.
Secular and religious brotherhoods are responsible for organising the procession. The oldest of them were founded in the 15th century. Each fraternity is distinguished by its own motto, the colour of its mantle and the insignia of its membership. Membership in such a fraternity cannot be bought – it is handed down from generation to generation.
Some of the most spectacular processions take place in Seville, the capital of the autonomous society of Andalusia, with around 70 fraternities taking part. The most striking feature is the Nazarenes dressed in capirot, characteristic penitential robes with high tapered hoods and loose tunics that are tied with string. Such robes were worn by Nazarenes as far back as the Middle Ages, at that time a symbol of penance for people punished by the Inquisition. Some Nazarenes today still walk in processions barefoot, or even with chained feet.
Such processions would not be possible without the costaleros, the porters. It is they who carry the impressive religious figures (pasos) on their shoulders. The figures can weigh up to 3 tonnes and require up to 300 men to carry them.
The giant figures are true works of art. They are usually made of wood and then painted, complete with silver and ivory elements. The figures are dressed in elaborate, ornate costumes, further emphasising the drama of the Passion of Christ. During the processions for Holy Thursday and Good Friday, among the participants are las manolas – ladies in black, mourning clothes with rosaries in their hands.
Amnesty during Holy Week
Some Spanish cities have their own unusual traditions associated with Holy Week. In Málaga, a prisoner can enjoy the special privilege of amnesty on this occasion.
This tradition dates back to 1759, when Málaga was struggling with the effects of a plague epidemic. The disease had so “crippled” the population that there was no one to carry the religious figures in the Holy Week procession. To help the procession, several prisoners escaped from jail and after the ceremony, they voluntarily returned to prison. In the following days, to the surprise of the locals, the plague began to recede, and King Charles III of Spain freed one of the prisoners in the procession.
The famous actor Antonio Banderas has been an active participant in the Holy Week celebrations in Málaga for several years now. As a member of one of the fraternities, he participates in the processions as a porter. During one such procession, Banderas said: “This is an extremely important experience for me. It’s an immersion in my roots, in the traditions of my family and my country.”
This year, the famous actor also took part in the Palm Sunday procession as a steward of the Brotherhood of Tears and Graces. For Antonio, it is not only a religious tradition, he calls it the “Holy Week of Solidarity,” thus emphasising that in the 21st century this time should focus on good deeds for society, beyond ceremonies, for the benefit of those who need it most.
